|
George Somers was born at Lyme in 1554, son of a wine importer
who was in partnership with Sir Walter Raleigh. Somers, like other
Elizabethan captains from the southwest such as Sir Francis Drake,
was essentially a state-encouraged pirate, preying on the galleons
of Spain that were returning from the Americas laden with gold.
He got rich enough to buy himself an estate at Weymouth and another,
Berne Manor, at Whitchurch Canonicorum (four miles northeast of
Lyme). In 1604 he was Lyme's mayor and Member of Parliament, and
in 1605 was knighted by king James I. He was admiral of a fleet
of eight ships, and in 1609, on June 2, he set sail in one of them,
the Sea Venture, from Plymouth. The Virginia Company
had hired him to take provisions to Jamestown, where two years earlier
the first English settlement in America had been established and
where it was starving. On July 26, in the midst of the Atlantic,
a hurricane drove the ship aground on an unknown and uninhabited
island, and Sir George claimed it for England. It was Bermuda, actually
discovered a century earlier by Juan Bermóndez of Spain. Crew and
passengers had to spend ten months there, and lived so well that
some didn't want to leave. But they built two pinnaces from the
ship's wreckage and the island's cedarwood, and sailed on. One pinnace,
with fourteen men, was never seen again; the other made the remaining
seven hundred miles to Virginia. Sailing back later in 1610, Somers
paused again at Bermuda, and died. There his heart was buried; his
body was pickled in a cask of rum (presumably to preserve it, though
possibly to hide it from the superstitious crew), brought back to
Lyme harbour, and transported up to Whitchurch Canonicorum for burial
at the church of Saint Candida and the Holy Cross.
By October of that
same year, 1610, one of the many Lyme men in the crew, Sylvester
Jourdain, had rushed into print with an account called A Discovery
of the Barmudas, or, The Island of Devils. Shakespeare, either
from this book, or from his patron the Earl of Southampton, who
was charter-holder of the Virginia colony, will have known the tale,
and The Tempest, with its opening scene of shipwreck on what
seems (but is not) a desert island, had its first performance at
court on November 5, 1611.
Now Lyme Regis is
twinned with St. George, Bermuda. The arrangement started
when their respective town criers, Richard Fox and Major Bob Burns,
met at the world town-crying championship at Halifax, Nova Scotia,
in 1978. Lyme worthies get invited to entertainment in the bars
and golf courses of that extended sandbank. (St. George, on St.
George's Island near the airport, is not the chief town of Bermuda;
I don't know whether it's the spot where Somers landed, or whether
larger Hamilton has its own twin.) Many English towns seem to be
twinned with small places in France that you haven't heard of
Axminster with Douvres-la-Délivrande (near Caen in Normandy)
but Lyme does have this historical connection with its twin.
And Lyme is to be
twinned also with Barfleur negotiations opened
in 2010 and the process should be completed in 2012. Barfleur, on
the Cotentin peninsula east of Cherbourg. is another historic little
seaport: from it the Normans sailed to conquer England in 1066,
and in 1194 Richard Coeur de Lion embarked for England after his
years of captivity.
But how can there
be three twins? More convenient, surely, is the American
usage: sister cities. If Lyme were one day to take a
fourth twin, such as Old Lyme in Connecticut, then we'd have a quadruplet
married to his sister, a ménage not achieved even by the
Ptolemies.
The 1609 embarkation
of Somers was commemorated in 2009 with Lyme's typical parade down
Broad Street and along Marine Parade and a ceremony on Victoria
Pier.
What is Bermuda?
It is the visible bit of a submarine hump called the Bermuda Rise.
It is over one of the planet's hot spots, places deep
under the crust (perhaps between the mantle and the core) where
extra heat causes magma to rise. As the plates of the crust move
slowly over them, some of these hot spots cause lines of volcanoes,
such as the Hawaiian islands (active volcanoes above where the spot
is now, extinct eroded ones back along its trail). The Bermuda Hot
Spot sent up no volcanoes, but has had a different huge effect (according
to geologists Roy Van Arsdale and Randel Cox, The Mississippi's
Curious Origins, in Scientific American, January 2007).
Its trail relative to the crust started around Kansas. At that time
the Appalachian mountains formed a continuous band with the Ouachita
(pronounced like WAshiTA) Mountains of Oklahoma and Arkansas. So
the rivers of what is now the central U.S.A. flowed away north and
west (oppositely to now), there being at that time no Rocky Mountains.
In the Cretaceous age (from about 150 to 65 million years ago) the
hot spot passed southeastward under this mountain band, causing
it to swell to greater heights, while (like all mountains) eroding
as it rose; after which this part, having lost much of its rock
and then cooled, sank to below sea level, forming a large bay open
to the Gulf of Mexico. So the rivers reversed and flowed into this
bay, filling it with sediment (it is now a plain termed the Mississippi
Embayment, reaching up to Missouri). The hot spot's course turned
somewhat leftward, passing under South Carolina and reaching where
Bermuda is now. Among its delayed effects were the 1812 and 1886
earthquakes centred on New Madrid, Missouri, and Charleston, South
Carolina the former being the largest ever recorded in the
contiguous U.S., and otherwise surprising since most earthquakes
happen not in mid-continental plains but at the rugged edges of
crustal plates.

|