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Long combers breaking waves can often be seen rolling in toward
the far eastern corner of Lyme. They look as if they might be rolling
over a drowned city. And they are.
As the tide lowers,
a platform of rock is revealed; dark, seaweedy, wrinkled, crackled
by channels into several masses. These rocks, stretching outward
a hundred yards or more, are the vestige of a former piece of land,
planed away by the sea.
It was a piece of
the town. According to old accounts, there were at least thirty-five
houses out there. Even after the houses were swept away by storms,
townspeople used the place as a quarry, removing quantities of rock.
Not wise: they were speeding the destruction of their own defences,
helping the sea to rush closer in and begin its attack on the cliffs
under the town.
The main mass of
these intertidal rocks is called Broad Ledge. One of its features
is a remarkably straight geological crack trench a miniature
rift valley running clear across it southeastward. From the
land corner you can take a sightline along this fissure, appearing
much foreshortened, toward Portland Bill and Paris.
Another channel, wider and deeper and more irregular, divides off
a western strip (nearer to the town) called Long Ledge, so that
in plan the whole thing looks like a crab's left claw.
As the tide comes
in, white water begins to be seen far out there. That outer part
of Broad Ledge will be the first to break the surface as an island,
showing that it must slope slightly up. As the tide continues to
rise, the rock platform is covered by a gradually thinner sheet
of water, through which the waves roll, breaking for more of the
way. Thus is created the grand sight of the train of combers, which
can be watched from nearby or from farther viewpoints such as the
Bell Cliff. It differs for every state of the tide, that is, every
depth of water. Each wave breaks, at first, only over the
ledges; the miles of it to left and right are still too far offshore
to break. Therefore the white folded-over foam-front remains at
about a constant width (in contrast to typical shore waves, in which
the breaking unrolls progressively along the wave's length). Each
comber runs inshore like this, for a hundred yards or more, a short
and sometimes strikingly high white wall. It looks as if surfers
could ride it the whole way; but this would be dangerous because
it would have to be done only when the rocks are far enough below.
The traveling wall may be divided into two or more shorter walls,
depending on the water's depth and hence the depths to the channels
among the rocks. Often two or three or four of these inward-running
white walls are observable at a time; each may leave a trail of
foam stretching behind it to the foot of the next in-rolling breaker,
so that the whole forms a white field lying before the rest of the
bay and the distant cliffs.
You wonder about
the view from beneath, the scenery within the layer of water: the
undersides of these traveling combers, the seaweed and little animals
on the rocks, wrested about but accustomed to it.
As the tide subsides
further, it creates a scene even more beautiful and subtle, best
viewed from the headland above: low wave fronts, bent to various
directions, intersect with each other in the shallow sheet, like
folds in the skin of a rhinoceros.
Then the expanse
of the rocks emerges, still an island or island-group until the
tide is at its lowest. Often it seems to cause still water around
itself, which shows as a glassy pale surround separating the rocks
from the rippled mass of the sea.
Meanwhile, close
in under the concrete viewpoint of the shore, a level pavement of
rock has been revealed, divided by a grid of cracks as of made of
huge tiles; boulders lie on it in stages of their roll toward the
sea; and there are areas of hard sand with shining wrinkles left
by the last ebbing ripples.
A buoy many hundred
yards out, with a blinking light scarcely noticeable except at night,
shows that there are other shallow areas over rocks that do not
appear above the water. They are the remains of land that succumbed
to the encroaching sea more centuries or millennia ago.
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